:::

:::

設計名家專文

Article of famous designers

Wu, Tzu-Yun (Austin Wu)-The 𝝅 Style Life of a Fashion Designer
設計師介紹

AUSTIN.W吳日云服裝設計工作室創辦人

Founder of AUSTIN.W Wu Tzu-Yun Fashion Design Studio

吳日云 Wu Tzu-Yun (Austin Wu)

YEARBOOK 2022

I am a fashiondesigner.” This is my opening remark in every interview I do with the media.The education well-beaten into us in the past always informs us that we need tostudy hard to “find a good job.” The occupation has become a label that definesa person. Is being a designer a good job? None of us knows exactly what theright answer is. If you can get a sense of accomplishment and see what you doas a lifetime career, then life is good. Nowadays in 2022, what we are pursuingisn’t simply a job, but a source of income and also something meaningful.

The sources of all designs come from ourperceptions. The architect An Yu-chien once said: “After physical senses areestablished, we can then talk about professional tools.”  Opening one’s senses so we can understand theworld is the first step. Close your eyes and listen to your surroundings—noises in the city, the sound of rapid breathing, or the subtle movement ofair. Do we gradually lose the memories of taste, a lemon’s tartness, coffee’sbitterness, or yummy cake icing? Sensory memory is the most precious thing. Readily available onlineinformation and images on the screen cannot replace our most unique senses.

After opening one’s senses and receiving training in design, one canstylize and use clothing as a medium to produce creative ideas. One’s designworks will gradually transform into commodities. With a piece of clothingproduced, the next step is to develop a fashion series.Afterwards, one will move forward to become a clothing designer. These are onlythe most basic requirements. What’s truly crucial is grasping opportunities.Successful designers lead fashion trends and cooperate with professionals tolaunch influential timeless works. These opportunities include cooperation withbrands—clothing brands or cross-industry brands to raise the visibility ofindividual designers and their works. In addition, active participation indomestic and foreign competitions can also provide opportunities to networkwith the design industry and to know influential leaders such as fashionclothing procurement personnel, magazine editors, textile companies, and thosewho lead public opinion. Customizing clothing for celebrity is another way tobe successful.


Between Taiwan and the World

New York Fashion Week was my first design show after graduating fromcollege. Why was New York Fashion Week willing to give opportunities todesigners who are new to the industry? The Asia Fashion Collection carried outevery year by the Japanese Department Store PARCO and the VANTAN DesignInstitute recommends young designers from Asian cities to design clothes forfashion shows in New York. These shows provide opportunities to present somemajor cultural differences in creative storytelling, commodity marketability,team execution abilities, and performance creativity. As the supporting unitfor Taiwan’s textile industrialists, the Taiwan Textile Federation bridgescooperation between the textile industry and designer brands in order to marketTaiwan’s designs and fabric craftsmanship to the world.


New York Fashion Week (Photo by AUSTIN.W Design)圖

Caption: New York Fashion Week (Photo by AUSTIN.WDesign)


The sustainable development ofdesigner brands comes from stable business practices. Participating in fashionshows provides an opportunity to be seen. Most of the Taiwan Proud productsthat often receive much publicity in the media have not yet been tested in themarket. Products that have good market sales need to strike a balance betweencreativity and business. Getting to know international brands and participatingin showroom and international trade shows to acquaint with clothing buyers is oneway. Before globalization, imported goods stores were the only channel forpeople to explore and get to know international brands. Goods selectors thenbegan to think about the styles of each store after the domestic market wasflooded with international brands. They combine fashion space with art, dailylife products, and even dining areas. Each store has become a rich expressionof the city and provides a market for small brands. These stores are notclothing chain stores. Their sales may not be high, but they have less pressurein terms of stockpiling. Such stores have become the cornerstone fordeveloping designer brands.


Backstage of the Asia Fashion Collection at New York Fashion Week圖

Caption: Backstage of the Asia Fashion Collection at NewYork Fashion Week



If you are pursuing a capitalized business strategy and can keep up withthe launch of clothing series and non-encroaching products for each quarter,the retail channel of department stores may also be an option. The unreachablethresholds, including the often-discussed costly rent and guaranteed minimumincome with shared revenue, also discourage designer brands. These thresholds,however, are less of an issue for domestic clothing companies and internationalbrands. In recent years, due to the rise of e-commerce, it’s no easy feat toattract investment in department stores. As a result, what gradually emerges isthe shopping experience that is not based on the size of space. The businessstyle now adopts combined selection methods (where department stores procuregoods by themselves). In addition, traditional planning of floors based onbusiness types is replaced by a combination of hair salons, clinics, andhandcrafted goods stores on the same floor to create customer flows. Sucharrangements are more in line with the consumers’ needs.

Taiwan has its own designer brands. It includes the internationallyrenowned SHIATZY CHEN and DOUCHANGLEE, hailing from a middle-aged designergeneration filled with commodity competitiveness. Recently, there are many moredesigners of younger generation with completely different styles and businessbehaviors. Retail channels have never given up on this market. The earliestplatform to support emerging designers is the “be yourself area” in theButterfly Clothing Department Store.  Inrecent years, Eslite Life AXES, Shin Kong Mitsukoshi A11, Carnival InDesign andHalfMe, among others, had planned to promote Taiwan’s fashion design bygathering the strength of Taiwan’s designers. However, due to a lack ofcomplete series and lines of designer products, unstable production cycles, andlower price competitiveness compared with international brands, companies stillchoose allocated sales areas with stable rent income in department stores.

 How aboutonline shopping driving consumption today? From the “be yourself area” ofPayeasy in the early years, Yahoo designer platform, and Pinkoi, Asia’s largestcultural and the creative platform, to the website content managementsystem, ShopLine: all these sites offer platforms fordesigner brands and micro-enterprises. The consumption mindset of themillennial generation is more concerned about the right to use, instead of outright ownership. The digitalworld in the post-COVID 19-era is gradually showing a higher visibility ofmicro-brands. To reach consumers globally, just building a good website is notenough. It’s necessary to have a team that’s good at communicating through theInternet and drawing customers closer to one’s brand through advertising.


Style Selection by AUSTIN.W and the Eslite Bookstore Living Project圖

Caption: Style Selection by AUSTIN.W and the EsliteBookstore Living Project


The Past and Future of Fashion in a Decade

The major change in fashion every ten years is a flip between new trendsand retro. In 2008, as the subprime lending crisis occurred in the UnitedStates and the world fell into a recession, practical minimalism was on therise. Led by the then CELINE female designer, Phebe Philo, countless works ofcontemporary influence were launched, including silhouette clothing thatsymbolizes female power, large shopping bags, and so on. Since 2018, we’ve had no shortage of food andclothing, and we have extra money to spare and the energy to consume luxurygoods. Alessandro Michele of GUCCI is known for his maximalism. Flipping andstacking a brand’s historical totems, vintage imprints, and non-functional minibags are now popular.

Taiwanese designers are also being seen in this fashion wave. In 2018,Taiwan’s first Taipei Fashion Week SS19 was held. For many years I have beenteaching in colleges and universities, the question I ask in the first class isalways, what is Taiwanese fashion? For the answer, I get an impressionimprinted in my mind but have always failed to put it into words. Since theTaipei Fashion Week, designers have conveyed their fashion imaginations throughmaterial craftsmanship, sustainable design, Taiwanese Indigenous culture, Hakkaculture and traditional art. Dressing is a part of life. As people care moreand more about what they wear, Taiwan’s design capacity will grow more and morevisible in the world.

Taipei Fashion Week 22SS  Beyond-Fashion and Art Confluence Show Photos圖

Caption: Taipei Fashion Week 22SS  Beyond-Fashion and Art Confluence Show Photos


You may be a professional in the clothing and fashion industry or maysoon have a supporting role. The charm of fashion will never fade. It’s alwayscreating infinite imagination during the man’s finite lifespans. As a fashiondesigner, we are committed to creating meaningful works. There is no shortageof clothing in today’s world. The clothing industry encompasses things beyondslow life and fast fashion that people once talked about. Every piece ofclothing produced as a commodity or for a fashion show carries its ownmeanings. When it comes to a designer’s unique style and creativity,sustainable design that is friendly to the environment, or the virtual clothingNFT conforming to contemporary values, it’s necessary to return to a designer’s  creative philosophy. Getting to know the selfis the first step to being one’s unique self. There is no need to be afraidthat of being your own person. We will all find our 𝝅 style of life.

 

Beautimode LUXJOY virtual dressing room圖

Caption: Beautimode LUXJOY virtual dressing room

::: TOP